Invisible Deck Finesse
Note From Editor:
In last month’s issue of the magazine, I published my handling of the Invisible Deck set up. It sparked a healthy discussion. Inspired by the discussion, Geoff Williams offered his handling and a few pointers as well. And here it is in his own words. Thank you Geoff!
R = Right
L = Left
RH = Right Hand
LH = Left Hand
FD = Face Down
FU = Face Up
Secondly, let’s redo the back-to-back pairs of cards so that we don’t have to calculate values or suits: pair all odd cards with the next highest value of THE SAME SUIT. This means you’ll pair the Ace of Spades with the 2 of Spades, the 3 of Spades with the 4 of Spades, the 7 of Diamonds with the 8 of Diamonds, the 5 of Hearts with the 6 of Hearts, the Jack of Clubs with the Queen of Clubs, etc. The only exceptions are the Kings (Clubs will be back-to-back with Diamonds because C & D are back-to-back in the alphabet. The other two Kings get paired with each other). I think of the BLACK Kings as being ODD so they’ll show on the odd side of the deck with all of the other odd cards.
Now when someone names a card, there are no messy calculations! Examples:
— If they name the 3 of Hearts, your key is the 4 of Hearts.
— If they name the 5 of Spades, your key is the 6 of Spades.
— If they name the 10 of Diamonds, your key is the 9 of Diamonds (Remember, the ODD card of the pair will be one less than the EVEN card of the pair).
— If they name the Queen of Clubs, your key is the Jack of Clubs. You don’t even have to remember the numeric values for the Queens and Jacks; just remember all Jacks are paired with their Queens (of the same suit).
— If they name the King of Spades, your key is the King of Hearts.
Easy as pie.
Thirdly, put the ID in the box with the ODD cards facing OUT (which should be easy for you to remember as they are both 3-letter words that begin with pretty much the same letter). Think of “out” as being the front side of the box (not directly attached to the box flap). As soon as you know the spectator’s card, orient the box accordingly and remove the deck with the opposite set of cards showing (facing up). In other words, if they choose a 10 (which is EVEN), hold the box so that, when the box is opened and the cards are removed, the ODD cards are showing.
“Let me know if you see a card face down.” As you are spreading the cards between your hands, make sure to move the spread in a slow sweeping fashion from L to R, apparently so that more folks can get a close-up of your impeccable card-spreading technique. Unbeknownst to them, you’re just helping to disguise the discrepancy that, if the named card was a 10, no other 10s are showing up. Sneaky, huh.
The actual revelation is as follows: You spot your “key” card. Look up as you lightly separate the FD selection from below your key. The spectators see one FD card in an otherwise FU deck (and will alert you). Break the spread at the reversed card, with it being the bottom card of the RH spread, and place the selection FD on the table. All attention will be drawn to that card which means no one will be aware that you’re putting the LH block on top of the block in your RH. You have just cut the deck.
Here’s where a very nice “touch” happens. Square the deck and hold it in Biddle (overhand) grip in your RH. Slowly flash your LH empty palm and the bottom of the ID in your RH. The audience will see the back of a card which subliminally sells the idea of the ID being normal. Say, “Hold it. Let’s be sure there’re no other cards reversed” (which of course, there are but they don’t know that). Repeat the sweeping L to R deck-spreading business again to show all cards facing up. PUT THE DECK BACK INTO THE BOX IN THE PROPER ORIENTATION (odd cards facing outward) and hold the box in your LH. Ask again for the identity of the selected card. Have someone else pick up the tabled, FD card and show it around.
After the gasps and applause have subsided, take back the card and, if it’s ODD, PLACE IT BACK INTO THE BOX IN THE VERY FRONT (facing out) or, if it’s EVEN, PLACE IT IN THE VERY BACK (facing the flap). Put the box away.
Here’s the cool part – you are instantly reset!
If you’ve performed a correctly-structured ID routine, no one will ask to examine the deck.
By the way, if you find that certain pairs of cards in your ID are separating prematurely, you can touch them up by using either Roughing Fluid, available at most well-stocked magic shops, or by using Testor’s “Dull Cote” spray. You’ll find it in a squatty little aerosol can in the craft (i.e., model airplane) section of most variety and hobby stores (WalMart, Michaels, Hobby Lobby, etc.). Place the cards in question face down on newspaper and give them several light dustings. Good as new!